Yonge Street: Onward From Holland Landing To Penetanguishene

To render our narrative complete, we give in a few parting words some of

the early accounts of the route from the Landing, northward as far as

Penetanguishene, which, after the breaking up of the establishment on

Drummond's island, was for some years the most remote station in Upper

Canada where the naval and military power of England was visibly

represented.



"After leaving Gwillimbury [i. e., the Landing ," says the Gazetteer

of 1799, "you enter the Holland river and pass into Lake Simcoe, by the

head of Cook's bay, to the westward of which are oak-plains, where the

Indians cultivate corn; and on the east is a tract of good land. A few

small islands shew themselves as the lake opens, of which Darling's

island in the eastern part, is the most considerable. To the westward is

a large deep bay, called Kempenfelt's bay, from the head of which is a

short carrying-place to the river Nottawasaga, which empties itself into

the Iroquois bay, in Lake Huron. In the north end of the lake, near the

Narrows leading to a small lake is Francis island, between which and the

north shore vessels may lie in safety."



It will be proper to make one or two remarks in relation to the proper

names here used, which have not in every case been retained.



Cook's bay, it will be of interest to remember, had its name from the

great circumnavigator. Kempenfelt's bay recalls the name of the admiral

who went down in the Royal George "with twice four hundred men."

Darling's island was intended to preserve the name of Gen. Darling, a

friend and associate of the first governor; and Francis island bore the

name of the same governor's eldest son. Canise island retains its name.

The name of another island in this lake, "parallel to Darling's island,"

is elsewhere given in the Gazetteer as Pilkington's island--a

compliment to Gen. Pilkington, a distinguished engineer officer.

Darling's island, at the present day, is, we believe, known as Snake

island; and Francis island and Pilkington's island, by other names.

Iroquois bay is the same as Nottawasaga bay: the interpretation, in

fact, of the term "Nottawasaga," which is the "estuary of the

Nodoway"--the great indentation whence often issued on marauding

expeditions the canoes of the Nodoway--so the Ochibways called the

Iroquois.



Lake Simcoe itself, the Gazetteer of 1799 informs us, was so named by

its first explorer, not with reference to himself, but to his father.

"Lake Simcoe," we read in a note at p. 138 of the work just named, was

"so named by Lieut.-Governor Simcoe in respect to his father, the late

Capt. Simcoe of the Royal Navy, who died in the River St. Lawrence on

the expedition to Quebec in 1759. In the year 1755, this able officer,"

the Gazetteer adds, "had furnished Government with the plan of

operations against Quebec, which then took place. At the time of his

death, Capt. Cook, the celebrated circumnavigator, was master of his

ship the Pembroke."



We here see the link of association which led to the application of the

great circumnavigator's name to the bay into which the Holland river

discharges itself. The Holland itself also, as we have already heard,

had its name from a companion of Gen. Wolfe.



We have on this continent no "old poetic mountains," no old poetic

objects of any description, natural or artificial, "to breathe

enchantment all around." It is all the more fitting, therefore, that we

should make the most of the historic memories which, even at second

hand, cling to our Canadian local names, here and there.



The old Gazetteer next goes on to inform us that "from the bay west of

Francis island there is a good path and a short portage into a small

lake. This is the nearest way to Lake Huron, the river which falls from

Lake Simcoe into Matchedash bay, called the Matchedash river, making a

more circuitous passage to the northward and westward;"--and Matchedash

bay "opens out," it afterwards states--"into a larger basin called

Gloucester or Sturgeon bay, in the chops of which lies Prince William

Henry's island, open to Lake Huron." It is noted also that on a

peninsula in this basin some French ruins are still extant: and then it

says, "between two larger promontories is the harbour of

Penetanguishene, around which is good land for settlement."

"Penetanguishene," it is finally added, "has been discovered to be a

very excellent harbour."



Again some annotations on names will not be out of place.



Matchedash bay is now Sturgeon bay, and Matchedash river, the river

Severn. Both bay and river have a peculiar interest for the people of

Toronto, as being respectively the Toronto bay and Toronto river of the

old French period. "To the north-east of the French river," Lahontan

says (ii. 19), "you see Toronto bay, in which a small lake of the same

name empties itself by a river not navigable on account of its rapids."

(He elsewhere says this river also bore the name of the lake--Toronto.)

The Duke of Gloucester was intended to be complimented in the name

Gloucester bay. Prince William Henry's island has not retained its name.

When it was imposed, the visit of that prince, afterwards the Duke of

Kent and father of the reigning Queen, to Upper Canada, was a recent

event.--The French ruins spoken of are the ruins of Fort Ste Marie near

the mouth of the river Wye--the chief mission-house of the Jesuits,

abandoned in 1649, still visible.



The "good path" and "nearest way to Lake Huron," from the bay west of

Francis island, indicates the well-known trail by Coldwater, which was

long the chief route to Penetanguishene; and the bay itself, west of

Francis island, is the bay known in later times as Shingle bay.



In 1834 an attempt was made to found a town at Shingle bay in connection

with the road to Penetanguishene. In a Courier of 1834, we have the

announcement: "New Town of Innisfallen. Shortly will be offered for sale

several building lots in the above new Town, beautifully situated on

Shingle Bay, Lake Simcoe. This being the landing-place for the trade to

Penetanguishene and the northern townships," the advertisement goes on

to say, "persons inclined to speculate in trade or business of any

description will find this a peculiarly valuable situation, as the

townships are settled with persons of respectability and capital. It

will command the trade to and from the lake. Further particulars can be

obtained by application to Wm. Proudfoot, Esq., or from P. Handy,

auctioneer, or Francis Hewson, Esq., Lake Simcoe. April 1st, 1834."



Innisfallen, however, did not mature into a town. Orillia, just within

the narrows, appears to have been a site more suited to the needs or

tastes of the public.



At p. 154, in the article on Yonge Street, the old Gazetteer of 1799

speaks again of the portage from Lake Simcoe to Lake Huron, via

Coldwater, and calls it "a continuation of Yonge Street." It then adds

the prediction, which we have once before quoted, that "the advantage

would certainly be felt in the future of transporting merchandize from

Oswego to York, and from thence across Yonge Street and down the waters

of Lake Simcoe into Lake Huron, in preference to sending it by Lake

Erie." And in the article on "Lac aux Claies," i.e., as we have

already said, Lake Simcoe, it is curiously stated--this is before the

year 1799--that "a vessel is now building for the purpose of

facilitating the communication by that route,"--but it is not said

where.



A "continuation of Yonge Street" in a more perfect sense, was at a later

period surveyed and partially opened by the military authorities, from a

point on Kempenfelt bay, a little east of the modern Barrie, in a direct

line to Penetanguishene; but the natural growth of the forest had in a

great degree filled up the track.



In 1847, however, through the instrumentality of the Commissioner of

Public Works of the day, the Hon. W. B. Robinson, the highway in

question, sixty-six feet in width and thirty miles in length, was

thoroughly cleared out and made conveniently practicable for general

travel.



This grand avenue is almost in a direct line with Yonge Street, after

the traverse of Lake Simcoe from the Landing has been accomplished.



Penetanguishene, indeed, as a port, no longer requires such an approach

as this. The naval and military depot which existed there has been

abolished; and Collingwood, since it has been made the primary terminus

on Lake Huron of the Northern Railway of Canada, is the place of resort

for the steamers and shipping of the upper lakes. Nevertheless, the fine

highway referred to yields permanently to the inhabitants of Vespra and

Oro, Flos and Medonte, Tiny and Tay, the incalculable advantage of easy

communication with each other and markets to the south,--the same

advantage that Yonge Street yielded to the settlers of Vaughan and

Markham, King and Whitchurch, and the three townships of Gwillimbury, in

the primitive era of their local history.



It is, however, not improbable that Penetanguishene itself will again

acquire importance when hereafter properly connected with our railway

system, now so surely advancing to the north shore of Lake Huron: thence

to push on to the North-West.



Dr. Thomas Rolfe, in his Statistical Account of Upper Canada, appended

to his book on the West Indies and United States, spoke in 1836 of the

region which we have now reached, thus: "The country about

Penetanguishene on Lake Huron is remarkably healthy; the winter roads to

it, crossing Lake Simcoe, excellent. In the summer months," he says, "it

is delightful to persons who are pleased and entertained by the wild

grandeur and simplicity of nature. The pure and transparent waters of

the beautiful bay, and the verdant foliage of the vast woods on the east

side of the harbour, form a very picturesque scene."



Capt. Bonnycastle visited Penetanguishene in 1841. He was present at one

of the periodical distributions of government presents to the Indians. A

great concourse of the native people, from far and near, was assembled

on the occasion. Under such circumstances, Penetanguishene and its

surroundings must have presented a peculiarly interesting appearance.



"I happened to be at Penetanguishene," Capt. Bonnycastle says, "when the

unfortunate Pou-tah-wah-tamies and nearly two thousand other Indians

arrived there, the latter to receive their annual gifts, the former to

implore protection. [They had been recently removed from their lands in

the United States by the U. S. authorities.] I had never seen the wild

and heathen Indians before," the Captain observes, "and shall never

forget the impression their appearance, on an August evening, with

everything beautiful in the scene around, made upon me. To do honour to

the commandant of the British port and his guests, these warlike savages

selected for the conference a sloping green field in front of his house,

whose base was washed by the waters of the Huron, which exhibited the

lovely expanse of the basin, with its high and woody background, and the

single sparkling islet in the middle. No spot could have been imagined

more suitable. Behind it rose the high hill which, cleared of timber, is

dotted here and there with the neat dwellings of the military

residents." He then describes the dresses of the Indians, their painted

faces, their war-dances, &c.



"The garrison," he says, "is three miles from the village, and is always

called the Establishment; and in the forest between the two places is a

new church built of wood, very small, but sufficient for the Established

Church, as it is sometimes called, of that portion of Canada. A

clergyman is constantly stationed here for the army, navy, and

civilians."



In regard to the provisions supplied to the soldiers and others, Capt

Bonnycastle has the following remarks: "A farmer [Mr. Mairs, as we

presume] on the Penetanguishene road has introduced English breeds of

cattle and sheep of the best kind. He was, and perhaps still is," he

says, "the contractor for the troops, and his stock is well worth

seeing. Thus the garrison is constantly supplied with finer meat than

any other station in Canada, although more out of the world and in the

wilderness, than any other; and, as fish is plentiful, the soldiers and

sailors of Queen Victoria in the Bay of the White Rolling Sand live

well." Penetanguishene means "the place of the falling sands;" the

reference being to a remarkable sandy cliff which has been crumbling

away from time immemorial, on the western side of the entrance to the

harbour.



We have a notice of Penetanguishene in 1846, in a volume of Travels in

Canada, by the Rev. A. W. H. Rose, published in 1849. "Penetanguishene,"

the writer says, "is situated at the bottom of a bay extremely shallow

on one side, and is a small military and naval station, the latter force

consisting of two iron war-steamers, of about sixty-horse power each.

There is said to be a nice little society in this (until lately) out of

the way station of Upper Canada. The probability is, however," remarks

the same writer, "that it will, as a naval and military depot, have to

be eventually shifted to Owen Sound, where there is a military reserve

specially retained in the survey, as, from the number of shoals about

Penetanguishene, the island, &c., the harbour is said generally to close

up with the ice three weeks earlier, and to continue shut three weeks

later than at the Sound."



A diagram in the Canadian Journal (i. 225), illustrating a paper by

Mr. Sandford Fleming, shews the remarkable terraced character of the

high banks of the harbour at Penetanguishene. "There are appearances in

various parts of this region," Mr. Fleming says, "that lead us to infer

that the waters of Lake Huron, like those of Ontario, formerly stood at

higher levels than they at present occupy. Parallel terraces and ridges

of sand and gravel can be traced at different places winding round the

heads of bays and points of high land with perfect horizontality, and

resembling in every respect the present lake beaches. One of them

particularly strikes the attention in the bay of Penetanguishene, at a

height of about seventy feet above the level of the lake. It can be seen

distinctly on either side from the water, or by a spectator standing on

one bank while the sun shines obliquely on the other, so as to throw the

deeper parts of the terrace in shadow."



Mr. Fleming then gives a section "sketched from a cutting a little below

Jeffery's tavern in the village of Penetanguishene, serving to shew the

manner in which the soil has been removed from the side hill and

deposited in a position formerly under water by the continued mechanical

action of the waves. Not only does the peculiar stratification of the

lower part of the terrace confirm the supposition that it was deposited

on the shore of the ancient lake, but the fact that such excavations

have been made in this land-locked position, where the waves could never

have had much force, goes far to prove that the lake stood for a long

period at this high level." (From the successive subsidences here spoken

of by Mr. Fleming, the island known as the Giant's Tomb, in the entrance

to Georgian Bay, has its peculiar appearance, viz., that of a colossal

grave elevated on a high platform or pedestal.)



In 1827, John Galt, the well-known writer, had been at Penetanguishene.

He was on his way from York to make an exploration of the Lake Huron

west of the Canada Company's Huron tract, from Cabot's head in the north

to the Riviere aux Sables in the south. For this purpose, a Government

vessel, the Bee, lying in Penetanguishene harbour, had been placed at

his disposal.



In his Autobiography he gives the following incidents of his journey

from the shore of Kempenfelt bay. "About half-way to Penetanguishene,"

he says, "we were compelled by the weather to take shelter in a farm

house, and a thunderstorm coming on obliged us to remain all night. The

house itself was not inferior to a common Scottish cottage, but it was

rendered odious by the landlady, who was, all the time we stayed, 'drunk

as a sow, Huncamunca' (a snatch, probably, of some Christmas pantomime).

Next day we proceeded," he continues, "to the military station and

dockyard of Penetanguishene by a path through the woods, which, to the

honour of the late Mr. Wilberforce, bears his name. Along it are settled

several negro families. As I walked part of the way," Galt says, "I went

into a cottage pleasantly situated on a rising ground, and found it

inhabited by a crow-like flock of negro children. The mother was busy

with them, and the father, a good-natured looking fellow, told me that

they were very comfortable, but had not yet made any great progress in

clearing the land, as his children were still too young to assist."



"We reached Penetanguishene," Galt then says, "the remotest and most

inland dockyard that owns obedience to the 'meteor-flag of England,'

where, by orders of the Admiralty, his Majesty's gun-boat the Bee was

placed at my disposal. By the by," he adds, "the letter from the

Admiralty was a curious specimen of the geographical knowledge which

then prevailed there, inasmuch as it mentioned that the vessel was to go

with me on Lake Huron in Lower Canada. In the village of

Penetanguishene," he then informs us, "there is no tavern. We were

therefore obliged to billet ourselves on the officer stationed there, of

whose hospitality and endeavour to make the time pass pleasantly till he

had the Bee ready for the lake, I shall ever retain a pleasant

remembrance."--He then describes his voyage in the little gun-boat as

far as Detroit, and his examination of the river subsequently called the

Maitland, and the site where Goderich was afterwards built.



Since 1840, the Rev. George Hallen has been a resident clergyman at

Penetanguishene. From him have been obtained the following particulars

of detachments of military stationed from time to time at that post. In

1838 a detachment of the 34th regiment, Lieut. Hutton commanding. In

1838 also, there were some incorporated Militia there under Colonel

Davis. In 1840, a detachment of the 93rd Highlanders, under Lieut. Hay.

In 1844, a detachment of the 84th regiment, under Lieut West. In 1846, a

detachment of the Royal Canadian Rifles, under Lieut. Black. In 1850, a

detachment of the Royal Canadian Rifles, under Lieut. Fitzgerald. In

1851, a detachment of the Royal Canadian Rifles, under Lieut. Moffatt.

In 1851, some of the Enrolled Pensioners, under Captain Hodgetts.



In regard to the Navy. In 1843, June 8th, the Minos, a large gun-boat,

in charge of Mr. Hatch and three men, arrived to be laid up. In the same

year, the steamer Experiment, Lieut. Boxer, was stationed there. In

1847, the same steamer, but commanded by Lieut. Harper. In 1847 also,

the steamer Mohawk, commanded by Lieut. Tyssen. In 1850, the same

steamer, but commanded by Lieut. Herbert. The place was also visited by

Captain Ross, R.N., when on his way to the North Seas; and by Lord

Morpeth, Lord Prudhoe, and Sir Henry Harte, (the two latter Captains in

the Navy), on their way to or from the Manitoulin Islands.



From Poulett Scrope's Life of Lord Sydenham, we learn that

Penetanguishene was visited by that Governor of Canada in 1840. "From

Toronto across Lake Simcoe to Penetanguishene on Lake Huron again, and

back to Toronto, which I left again last night for the Bay of

Quinte."--Private Letter, p. 190.



The following account of the removal of the British post from Drummond's

island to Penetanguishene in 1828, has been also derived from the Rev.

Mr. Hallen, who gathered the particulars from the lips of Mr. John

Smith, aged 80, still living (1872) near Penetanguishene, formerly

employed in the Ordnance Department at Quebec, and then as Commissariat

Issuer at Drummond's island.



"Mr. John Smith and his wife remained on the island till the 14th of

November, 1828, when it was given up to the Americans. Lieut. Carson

commanding a detachment of the 68th regiment was there at the time; and

Mr. Smith well remembers Lieut. Carson giving up the keys to the

American officers, and that 'they shook hands quite friendly.' The

Government sent the brig Wellington to take away the British from the

island, but it was too small, and they were obliged in addition to hire

an American vessel. Mr. Keating was at that time Fort adjutant at the

island, and Mr. Rawson, barrack master. Smith arrived at Penetanguishene

as a Commissariat Issuer on the 20th or 21st November, 1828. He does not

remember any vessels at Drummond's island. He says that Commodore Barrie

came up in the Bullfrog, and that the gossip of the island was, that

he was the cause of its being given up to the Americans. Mr. Keating,

the Fort adjutant, was afterwards Fort adjutant at Penetanguishene,

where he arrived in the spring of 1829, having been detained at

Amherstburgh. He died in the year 1849."



"Mr. Smith said that, as far as he could recollect, the detachments

stationed on the island were, of the 71st Regiment, under Lieut. Impett;

of the 79th, under Lieut. Matthews; of the 24th, under Lieut. James; of

the 15th, under Lieut. Ingall. (The last-named officer lived afterwards

at Penetanguishene). In 1828, there were at Penetanguishene 20 or 30

Marines, under the command of Lieut. Woodin, R.N. In regard to the four

gun-boats which are sunk in the harbour, Mr. Smith said they were sunk

there before 1828. He remembers the name of only one of them, the

Tecumseh."



Mr. Hallen remarks: "The account I heard of these gun-boats when I came

to Penetanguishene was that they were brought here, I think, from

Nottawasaga bay after the American war and were sunk to prevent their

rotting. Vessels must have been built at Penetanguishene," Mr. H. adds,

"as I remember a place on the Lake Shore, about five miles N.W. of

Penetanguishene, being pointed out to me as the 'Navy Yard.' Many of the

logs were still there."



The Bee, which conveyed Mr. Galt when on his voyage of exploration

along the western coast of Lake Huron, was sold by public auction in

1832. In that year the first great reduction of the naval and military

establishment at Penetanguishene took place. Step by step the process

went on until the ancient depot was finally extinguished; and in 1859

the stone barracks were converted into a Public Reformatory.



The enumeration of the stores disposed of by public vendue, on Thursday,

the 15th of March, 1830, and six following days, at Penetanguishene,

will not be without pathos. At all events, those who have, at any time,

made boats and the appurtenances of boats one of their hobbies, will not

dislike to read the homely names of the articles then brought to the

hammer.



(It will be observed that no mention is made of a certain memorable

anchor laboriously dragged from York as far as the Landing en route to

Penetanguishene, but taken no further, becoming, when half embedded in

the earth there, an object of perpetual wonderment to beholders: a thing

too ponderous to be conveniently handled and removed by an ordinary

purchaser, let the amount paid for it be ever so trifling.)



The following, then, were the miscellaneous articles belonging to the

Crown advertised to be sold to the highest bidder on the 15th and

following days of March, 1832, at Penetanguishene, and so, we may

conclude, disposed of accordingly:--The Tecumseh, schooner, 175 tons.

The Newash, brigantine, 175 tons. The Bee, gunboat, 41 tons. The

Mosquito, gunboat, 31 tons. The Wasp, gunboat, 41 tons. Batteaux,

three in number. Thirty-two feet cutter. Two thirty-two feet gigs and

their furniture. One whale boat One jolly boat. One nineteen feet gig.

Twenty-two pounds old bunting. Canvas, mildewed slightly, 366 yards.

Canvas, of all sorts, cut from frigate sails, 2170 yards. Old canvas,

491 yards. Packing cases, 23. Iron casks, 12. Iron bound casks, 8. Wood

bound casks, 24. Chests, common, 2. Chests, top, 2. Cordage, worn, 988

fathoms. Cordage, in rounding, 318 fathoms. Cordage, in junk, 28 cwt. 20

lbs. Cordage, in paper stuff, 1 cwt. 3 qrs. 1 lb. Covers, hammock, 5.

Iron, old wrought, 12 cwt. 3 qrs. 161/2 lbs. Rigging, brigantine,

standing, complete, 1 set. Running, in part, 1 set. Rigging, schooner,

standing and running, complete, 1 set. Rigging, Durham boats, standing

and running, in part, 2 sets.--Rigging, boats, standing, worn, 1 set.

Sails for a 32 gun ship, 1 set brigantine sails, 1 set schooner sails, 1

set Durham boat sails, 18 in number; boat sails 18 in number;

unserviceable stores. Axes, felling, 8. Bellows, camp forge, 2 pairs.

Blocks, single, 11 inch, 1. Blocks, double, 10 inch, 1. Brushes, tar,

15. Buckets, leather, 14. Chisels, of sorts, 12. Compass glasses, 1.

Cordage, 552 fathoms. Glass, broken, 16 panes. Hammocks, 16. Locks,

stock, 1. Mallet, caulking, 1. Oars, fir, 7. Paint, white, 1 qr. 2 lbs.

Paint, yellow, 2 qrs. 18 lbs. Planes, 10 in number. Punts, boats, 1.

Saws, crosscut, 5; Saws, hand, 6; Saws, dove-tail, 1; Saws, rip, 3.

Spout for pump, 1. Sweeps, 4. Shovels, 9. Twine, fine, 31/2 lbs. Twine,

ordinary, 171/4 lbs. Seines, 1.



The document which supplies us with the foregoing list announces that,

"the stores will be put up in convenient lots, and that a deposit of 25

per cent. will be required at the time of sale, and the remainder of the

purchase money previous to the removal of the articles, for which a

reasonable time will be allowed." The whole is signed--Wm. Henry Woodin,

Lieutenant commanding, June 18th, 1832.



We here bring to a close our Collections and Recollections in regard to

Yonge Street. That our narrative might be the more complete, we have

given a notice of the ancient terminus of that great thoroughfare, on

Lake Huron. It will be seen that in Penetanguishene and its environs,

Toronto has a place and a neighbourhood at the north abounding with

interesting memories almost as richly as Niagara itself and that

vicinity, at its south: memories intimately associated with its own

history, not alone before the present century began, but also before

even the preceding century began, that is, taking into view the local

history of this part of Canada prior to the acquisition of the country

by the English.



From remote Penetanguishene, dismantled and abolished in a naval and

military sense, our thoughts naturally turn to more conspicuous places

that have in our day successively undergone the same process: to

Kingston, to Niagara, to Montreal, to our own fort, here at Toronto, and

finally, in 1871, to Quebec. The 8th of November, 1871, will be a date

noted in future histories. On that day the Ehrenbreitstein of the St.

Lawrence, symbol for a hundred years and more, of British power on the

northern half of the North American continent, was voluntarily

evacuated, in accordance with a deliberate public policy.



The 60th Regiment, it is singular to add, which on the 8th of November,

1871, marched forth from the gates of the citadel of Quebec, was a

regiment that was present on the heights of Abraham in 1759, and helped

to capture the fortress which it now peacefully surrendered.



Is the day approaching when artistic tourists will be seen sketching, at

Point Levi, the bold Rock in front of them for the sake of the ruins at

its summit, not picturesque probably, but for ever famed in story?