Chevalier La Salle The Explorer Of The Mississippi


There are two great explorers whose names have been made famous by their

association with the mighty river of the West, the Mississippi, or

Father of Waters,--De Soto, the discoverer, and La Salle, the explorer,

of that stupendous stream. Among all the rivers of the earth the

Mississippi ranks first. It has its rivals in length and volume, but

stands without a rival as a noble channel of commerce, the pride of the

West
and the glory of the South. We have told the story of its discovery

by De Soto, the Spanish adventurer; we have now to tell that of its

exploration by La Salle, the French chevalier.



Let us say here that though the honor of exploring the Mississippi has

been given to La Salle, he was not the first to traverse its waters. The

followers of De Soto descended the stream from the Arkansas to its mouth

in 1542. Father Marquette and Joliet, the explorer, descended from the

Wisconsin to the Arkansas in 1673. In 1680 Father Hennepin, a Jesuit

missionary sent by La Salle, ascended the stream from the Illinois to

the Falls of St. Anthony. Thus white men had followed the great river

for nearly its whole length. But the greatest of all these explorers and

the first to traverse the river for the greater part of its course, was

the Chevalier Robert de la Salle, and to his name is given the glory of

revealing this grand stream to mankind.



Never was there a more daring and indefatigable explorer than Robert de

la Salle. He seemed born to make new lands and new people known to the

world. Coming to Canada in 1667, he began his career by engaging in the

fur trade on Lake Ontario. But he could not rest while the great

interior remained unknown. In 1669 he made an expedition to the west and

south, and was the first white man to gaze on the waters of the swift

Ohio. In 1679 he launched on the Great Lakes the first vessel that ever

spread its sails on those mighty inland seas, and in this vessel, the

Griffin, he sailed through Lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan.



La Salle next descended the Illinois River, and built a fort where the

city of Peoria now stands. But his vessel was wrecked, and he was forced

to make his way on foot through a thousand miles of wilderness to obtain

supplies at Montreal. Such was the early record of this remarkable man,

and for two years afterward his life was full of adventure and

misfortune. At length, in 1682, he entered upon the great performance of

his life, his famous journey upon the bosom of the Father of Waters.



It was midwinter when La Salle and his men set out from the lakes with

their canoes. On the 4th of January, 1682, they reached the mouth of the

Chicago River, where its waters enter Lake Michigan. The river was

frozen hard, and they had to build sledges to drag their large and heavy

canoes down the ice-closed stream. Reaching the portage to the Illinois,

they continued their journey across the bleak and snowy waste,

toilsomely dragging canoes, baggage, and provisions to the other stream.

Here, too, they found a sheet of ice, and for some days longer trudged

down the channel of the silent and dreary stream. Its banks had been

desolated by Indian wars, and where once many flourishing villages rose

there were to be seen only ashes and smoke-blackened ruins.



About the 1st of February they reached Crevecoeur, the fort La Salle

had built some years earlier. Below this point the stream was free from

ice, and after a week's rest the canoes were launched on the liquid

surface. They were not long in reaching the point where the Illinois

buries its waters in the mighty main river, the grave of so many broad

and splendid streams.



Past the point they had now reached the Mississippi poured swiftly

downward, its waters swollen, and bearing upon them great sheets of ice,

the contribution of the distant north. It was no safe channel for their

frail birch-bark canoes, and they were obliged to wait a week till the

vast freightage of ice had run past. Then, on the 13th of February,

1682, they launched their canoes on the great stream, and began their

famous voyage down its mighty course.



A day's journey brought them to the place where the turbulent Missouri

pours its contribution, gathered from thousands of miles of mountain and

prairie, into the parent stream, rushing with the force and roar of a

rapid through a channel half a mile broad, and quickly converting the

clear Mississippi waters into a turbid yellow torrent, thick with mud.



La Salle, like so many of the early explorers, was full of the idea of

finding a short route across the continent to the Pacific Ocean, and he

found the Indians at the mouth of the Missouri ready to tell him

anything he wanted to know. They said that by sailing ten or twelve days

up the stream, through populous villages of their people, he would come

to a range of mountains in which the river rose; and by climbing to the

summit of these lofty hills he could gaze upon a vast and boundless sea,

whose waves broke on their farther side. It was one of those imaginative

stories which the Indians were always ready to tell, and the whites as

ready to believe, and it was well for La Salle that he did not attempt

the fanciful adventure.



Savage settlements were numerous along the Mississippi, as De Soto had

found a century and more earlier. About thirty miles below the Missouri

they came to another village of peaceful natives, whose souls they made

happy by a few trifling gifts which were of priceless worth to their

untutored minds. Then downward still they went for a hundred miles or

more farther, to the mouth of another great stream, this one flowing

from the east, and as noble in its milder way as the Missouri had been

in its turbulent flow. Unlike the latter, this stream was gentle in its

current, and its waters were of crystal clearness. It was the splendid

river which the Indians called the Wabash, or Beautiful River, and the

French by the similar name of La Belle Riviere. It is now known as the

Ohio, the Indian name being transferred to one of its tributaries. This

was the stream on whose waters La Salle had gazed with admiration

thirteen years before.



The voyagers were obliged to proceed slowly. Unable to carry many

provisions in their crowded canoes, they were often forced to stop and

fish or hunt for game. As the Indians told them they would find no good

camping-grounds for many miles below the Ohio, they stopped for ten days

at its mouth, hunting and gathering supplies. Parties were sent out to

explore in various directions, and one of the men, Peter Prudhomme,

failed to return. It was feared that he had been taken captive by the

Indians, traces of whom had been seen near by, and a party of Frenchmen,

with Indian guides, was sent out on the trails of the natives. They

returned without the lost man, and La Salle, at length, reluctantly

giving him up, prepared to continue the journey. Just as they were

entering the canoes the missing man reappeared. For nine days he had

been lost in the forest, vainly seeking his friends, and wandering

hopelessly. His gun, however, had provided him with food, and he reached

the stream just in time.



Once more the expedition was launched on the swift-flowing current,

eight or ten large birch canoes filled with Indians and Frenchmen in

Indian garb, and laden with supplies. The waters bore them swiftly

onward, there was little labor with the paddles, the wintry weather was

passing and the air growing mild, the sky sunny, and the light-hearted

sons of France enjoyed their daily journey through new and strange

scenes with the warmest zest.



About one hundred and twenty miles below the Ohio they reached the

vicinity of the Arkansas River, the point near which the voyage of

Marquette had ended and that of the followers of De Soto began. Here,

for the first time in their journey, they met with hostile Indians. As

the flotilla glided on past the Arkansas bluffs, on the 3d of March, its

people were startled by hearing the yells of a large body of savages and

the loud sound of a drum, coming from behind the bluff. The natives had

taken the alarm, supposing that a war party of their enemies was coming

to attack them.



La Salle ordered his canoes at once to be paddled to the other side of

the stream, here a mile wide. The party landing, some intrenchments were

hastily thrown up, for across the river they could now see a large

village, filled with excited and armed warriors. Preparations for

defence made, La Salle advanced to the water's edge and made signs of

friendship and amity. Pacified by these signals of peace, some of the

Indian chiefs rowed across until near the bank, when they stopped and

beckoned to the strangers to come to them.



Father Membre, the priest who accompanied the expedition, entered a

canoe and was rowed out to the native boat by two Indians. He held out

to them the calumet, or pipe of peace, the Indian signal of friendship,

and easily induced the chiefs to go with him to the camp of the whites.

There were six of them, frank and cordial in manner, and seemingly

disposed to friendship. La Salle made them very happy with a few small

presents, and at their request the whole party embarked and accompanied

them across the river to their village.



All the men of the place crowded to the bank to receive their strange

visitors, women and children remaining timidly back. They were escorted

to the wigwams, treated with every show of friendship, and regaled with

the utmost hospitality. These Arkansas Indians were found to be a

handsome race, and very different in disposition from the northern

tribes, for they replaced the taciturn and often sullen demeanor of the

latter with a gay and frank manner better suited to their warmer clime.

They were also much more civilized, being skilled agriculturists, and

working their fields by the aid of slaves captured in war. Corn, beans,

melons, and a variety of fruits were grown in their fields, and large

flocks of turkeys and other fowls were seen round their dwellings.



La Salle and his party stayed in the village for some two weeks, and

before leaving went through the form of taking possession of the

country in the name of the king of France. This proceeding was conducted

with all the ceremony possible under the circumstances, a large cross

being planted in the centre of the village, anthems sung, and religious

rites performed. The Indians looked on in delight at the spectacle,

blankly ignorant of what it all meant, and probably thinking it was got

up for their entertainment. Had they known its full significance they

might not have been so well pleased.



Embarking again on the 17th of March, the explorers continued their

journey down the stream, coming after several days to a place where the

river widened into a lake-like expanse. This broad sheet of water was

surrounded with villages, forty being counted on the east side and

thirty-four on the west. On landing in this populous community, they

found the villages to be well built, the houses being constructed of

clay mixed with straw, and covered with dome-like roofs of canes. Many

convenient articles of furniture were found within.



These Southern Indians proved to be organized under a very different

system from that prevailing in the North. There each tribe was a small

republic, electing its chiefs, and preserving the liberty of its people.

Here the tribes were absolute monarchies. The head-chief, or king, had

the lives and property of all his subjects at his disposal, and kept his

court with the ceremonious dignity of a European monarch. When he called

on La Salle, who was too sick at that time to go and see him, the

ceremony was regal. Every obstruction was removed from his path by a

party of pioneers, and the way made level for his feet. The spot where

he gave audience was carefully smoothed and covered with showy mats.



The dusky autocrat made his appearance richly attired in white robes,

and preceded by two officers who bore plumes of gorgeously colored

feathers. An official followed with two large plates of polished copper.

The monarch had the courteous dignity and gravity of one born to the

throne, though his interview with La Salle was conducted largely with

smiles and gestures, as no word spoken could be understood. The

travellers remained among this friendly people for several days,

rambling through the villages and being entertained in the dwellings,

and found them far advanced in civilization beyond the tribes of the

North.



Father Membre has given the following account of their productions: "The

whole country is covered with palm-trees, laurels of two kinds, plums,

peaches, mulberry, apple, and pear-trees of every variety. There are

also five or six kinds of nut-trees, some of which bear nuts of

extraordinary size. They also gave us several kinds of dried fruit to

taste. We found them large and good. They have also many varieties of

fruit-trees which I never saw in Europe. The season was, however, too

early to allow us to see the fruit. We observed vines already out of

blossom."



Continuing their journey down the stream, the adventurers next came to

the country of the Natchez Indians, whom they found as friendly as those

they had recently left. La Salle, indeed, was a man of such genial and

kind disposition and engaging manners that he made friends of all he

met. As Father Membre says, "He so impressed the hearts of these Indians

that they did not know how to treat us well enough." This was a very

different reception to that accorded De Soto and his followers, whose

persistent ill-treatment of the Indians made bitter enemies of all they

encountered.



The voyagers, however, were soon to meet savages of different character.

On the 2d of April, as they floated downward through a narrow channel

where a long island divided the stream, their ears were suddenly greeted

with fierce war-whoops and the hostile beating of drums. Soon a cloud of

warriors was seen in the dense border of forest, gliding from tree to

tree and armed with strong bows and long arrows. La Salle at once

stopped the flotilla and sent one canoe ahead, the Frenchmen in it

presenting the calumet of peace. But this emblem here lost its effect,

for the boat was greeted with a volley of arrows. Another canoe was

sent, with four Indians, who bore the calumet; but they met with the

same hostile reception.



Seeing that the savages were inveterately hostile, La Salle ordered his

men to their paddles, bidding them to hug the opposite bank and to row

with all their strength. No one was to fire, as no good could come from

that. The rapidity of the current and the swift play of the paddles

soon sent the canoes speeding down the stream, and though the natives

drove their keen arrows with all their strength, and ran down the banks

to keep up their fire, the party passed without a wound.



A few days more took the explorers past the site of the future city of

New Orleans and to the head of the delta of the Mississippi, where it

separates into a number of branches. Here the fleet was divided into

three sections, each taking a branch of the stream, and very soon they

found the water salty and the current becoming slow. The weather was

mild and delightful, and the sun shone clear and warm, when at length

they came into the open waters of the Gulf and their famous voyage was

at an end.



Ascending the western branch again until they came to solid ground, a

massive column bearing the arms of France was erected, and by its side

was planted a great cross. At the foot of the column was buried a leaden

plate, on which, in Latin, the following words were inscribed:



"Louis the Great reigns. Robert, Cavalier, with Lord Tonti, Ambassador,

Zenobia Membre, Ecclesiastic, and twenty Frenchmen, first navigated this

river from the country of the Illinois, and passed through this mouth on

the ninth of April, sixteen hundred and eighty-two."



La Salle then made an address, in which he took possession for France of

the country of Louisiana; of all its peoples and productions, from the

mouth of the Ohio; of all the rivers flowing into the Mississippi from

their sources, and of the main stream to its mouth in the sea. Thus,

according to the law of nations, as then existing, the whole valley of

the Mississippi was annexed to France; a magnificent acquisition, of

which that country was destined to enjoy a very small section, and

finally to lose it all.





We might tell the story of the return voyage and of the fierce conflict

which the voyagers had with the hostile Quinnipissa Indians, who had

attacked them so savagely in their descent, but it will be of more

interest to give the account written by Father Membre of the country

through which they had passed.



"The banks of the Mississippi," he writes, "for twenty or thirty leagues

from its mouth are covered with a dense growth of canes, except in

fifteen or twenty places where there are very pretty hills and spacious,

convenient landing-places. Behind this fringe of marshy land you see the

finest country in the world. Our hunters, both French and Indian, were

delighted with it. For an extent of six hundred miles in length and as

much in breadth, we were told there are vast fields of excellent land,

diversified with pleasing hills, lofty woods, groves through which you

might ride on horseback, so clear and unobstructed are the paths.



"The fields are full of all kinds of game,--wild cattle, does, deer,

stags, bears, turkeys, partridges, parrots, quails, woodcock, wild

pigeons, and ring-doves. There are also beaver, otters, and martens.

The cattle of this country surpass ours in size. Their head is monstrous

and their look is frightful, on account of the long, black hair with

which it is surrounded and which hangs below the chin. The hair is fine,

and scarce inferior to wool.



"We observed wood fit for every use. There were the most beautiful

cedars in the world. There was one kind of tree which shed an abundance

of gum, as pleasant to burn as the best French pastilles. We also saw

fine hemlocks and other large trees with white bark. The

cottonwood-trees were very large. Of these the Indians dug out canoes,

forty or fifty feet long. Sometimes there were fleets of a hundred and

fifty at their villages. We saw every kind of tree fit for

ship-building. There is also plenty of hemp for cordage, and tar could

be made in abundance.



"Prairies are seen everywhere. Sometimes they are fifty or sixty miles

in length on the river front and many leagues in depth. They are very

rich and fertile, without a stone or a tree to obstruct the plough.

These prairies are capable of sustaining an immense population. Beans

grow wild, and the stalks last several years, bearing fruit. The

bean-vines are thicker than a man's arm, and run to the top of the

highest trees. Peach-trees are abundant and bear fruit equal to the best

that can be found in France. They are often so loaded in the gardens of

the Indians that they have to prop up the branches. There are whole

forests of mulberries, whose ripened fruit we begin to eat in the month

of May. Plums are found in great variety, many of which are not known in

Europe. Grape-vines and pomegranates are common. Three or four crops of

corn can be raised in a year."



From all this it appears that the good Father was very observant, though

his observation, or the information he obtained from the Indians, was

not always to be trusted. He goes on to speak of the tribes, whose

people and customs he found very different from the Indians of Canada.

"They have large public squares, games, and assemblies. They seem

mirthful and full of vivacity. Their chiefs have absolute authority. No

one would dare to pass between the chief and the cane torch which burns

in his cabin and is carried before him when he goes out. All make a

circuit around it with some ceremony."



More

;